More than any other spot in the country, Kuala Lumpur, or "KL" as it is commonly known, is the focal point of new Malaysia. While the city's
past is still present in the evocative British colonial buildings of the
Dataran Merdeka and the midnight lamps of the
Petaling Street nightmarket, that past is everywhere met with insistent reminders of KL's present and future. The city's bustling streets, its shining, modern office towers, and its cosmopolitan air project an unbounded spirit of progress and symbolize Malaysia's unhesitating leap into the future. To some, this spirit seems to have been gained at the loss of ancient cultural traditions, but in many ways KL marks the continuation rather than the loss of Malaysia's rich past. Like
Malacca five hundred years before, KL's commercial centre is a grand meeting place for merchants and travelers from all over the world.
In the same way, the city brings together Malaysia's past and present, its many constituent cultures, and even its remarkable natural treasures, allowing first-time visitors an invaluable opportunity to see Malaysia as a whole before setting off to explore its parts. In the botanical and bird parks of the
Lake Gardens one is treated to a first glimpse of the unsurpassed beauty and variety of Malaysia's plants and animals. In the vibrant
Central Market, music, crafts, and cultural practices from Kelantan to Sarawak can be explored and experienced. And in the
National Museum, the dizzying multiplicity of Malaysia's cultural history comes into focus. As the entry point for most visitors and the meeting point of the country's many attractions, Kuala Lumpur is a grand gateway to a fascinating destination.
With a height of 1,453 feet, one of the world's tallest buildings rise above the skyline of Kuala Lumpur. They are called the Petronas Towers, and, inevitably, they have become the symbols for the astounding growth that has taken place in Malaysia over the last two decades.
History
Near the center of Kuala Lumpur, the Klang and Gombak rivers flow quietly together, their confluence barely noticed amid the dwarfing skyline of gleaming new hotels and office buildings. A few feet from the place where the rivers meet, the
Jame Mosque rests in the middle of it all like a piece of beautiful antique furniture, curiously left behind in a living room renovated for the space age. Walk to the rear of the mosque, and you will come to a small grassy field; walk to the southernmost edge of the field, and you can stand at the exact point where the rivers join. It is a strange place to stand. Overshadowed by the crowded skyline, the spot feels improbably humble and empty. It seems impossible that the entire city sprung from this one spot.
Yet in 1857, this is where it all began. A group of 87 miners, all of them Chinese, poled their way up the Klang in search of tin. At that time, tin was in huge demand, especially by America and the British Empire, which needed the durable, lightweight metal to help fuel their industrial revolutions. In Ampang, few miles to the east, there were huge reserves of it, and this spot was the highest point where the prospectors could land their supplies. They named it "muddy confluence," built a ramshackle, thatched-roof village, and within a month all but 17 of them had died of malaria. It was a devastating beginning to what would become one of Asia's richest cities.
More tin prospectors, however, soon followed, and within a few years the village thrived. Like all mining boom-towns, it was raucous place, populated almost exclusively by men.
They spent their days in grueling labor, crouching over tin pans or digging the earth, returning to the town at dusk to console their loneliness in bars and gambling halls.
Few got rich, but throughout the peninsula the mania for tin inspired fierce rivalries and claim disputes. As they did in the gold fields of California, the Chinese miners organized themselves into clans and warring factions called "secret societies." Without a centralized Chinese authority keeping peace, order in the mining areas was nearly impossible. Whole clans could be swept up in fights that started over little more than a drunken dispute between two men. In 1868, needing a solution to the chaos, the headmen of the local clans elected a man named Yap ah Loy as "Kapitan China," or leader of the Chinese community. With the support of the local sultan, he built prisons and quelched revolts, quickly establishing an infamous reign over the entire Kuala Lumpur mining area. If KL has a "founding father," it is Loy.
Loy had barely established control, however, when the Malay Civil War broke out a few years later. Local sultans were fighting for the throne of Perak, and KL, swept up in the conflict, burned to the ground. The merchants of the Straits Settlements, concerned that the war would ruin their prosperity, asked Britain to intervene. Britain was initially reluctant to get involved with internal politics, but rumors that the merchants would turn to Germany instead sparked a fear in London that Britain could lose its tin interests in Malaya. London sent in a new territorial governor, Andrew Clarke, to apprise the situation. Clarke gathered the feuding princes aboard his ship off the island of Pangkor, and convinced them to sign a document known as the Pangkor Agreement. The Agreement ended the war, established a new Sultan of Perak, and -- most significantly -- called for the presence of a British Resident "who must be asked and acted upon on all questions other than those touching Malay religion and custom." This was the beginning of a dramatically increased British involvement in Malaya, one that would eventually place Kuala Lumpur at center of history.
The British residential system quickly spread. Frank Swettenham, the Resident of Selangor, chose Kuala Lumpur as his administrative center and oversaw the rebirth of the city, ordering the construction of new buildings using brick. In 1896, Swettenham convinced the Sultans of four states to unite under the umbrella of the Federated Malay States (FMS), and Kuala Lumpur was chosen as the capital. The city became a classic center of British colonialism. Sharply uniformed officers and bureaucrats administered the FMS from beneath the distinctive copper domes of the Sultan Abdul Samad Building. In the off-hours, they played cricket on the field of the Padang and sought liquid comfort in the Selangor Club, where only whites were allowed. Unsurprisingly, the club became a symbol of British imperialism and oppression and fueled the ever-growing dreams of independence. At midnight on August 30, 1957, amidst a crowd of tens of thousands, British soldiers finally lowered the Union Jack for the last time in front of the Selangor Club. Interestingly, the old British watering hole would become the meeting place of the new Malaysian elite.
With independence, KL was poised for its greatest transformation ever. One of the city's darkest days came in 1969, when civil unrest - spawned by racial tensions -- swept through the city, sparking a state of emergency that would last for two years. Bolstered by a growing economy and a sincere desire for cooperation between Malaysia's ethnic groups, the tensions subsided, and in 1974 the city was given the status of Federal Territory. The last 20 years have seen Kuala Lumpur undergo phenomenal growth, with a population explosion of almost 50 percent, not to mention development on a monumental scale. One of the world's tallest buildings, the Petronas Towers, now rise above the city of 1.4 million. If those 87 Chinese miners could have poled their way 140 years up the river of time, they probably wouldn't recognize the legacy that began where the two muddy rivers met.
Exploring Kuala Lumpur
General Attractions
Malaysia Tourist Information Complex (MATIC)
A good place to begin any visit to Kuala Lumpur is the one-stop information centre, which provides a general picture of what the city and Malaysia have to offer. Audio-visual equipment provides background information on each state in the country. You can book a tour, arrange to go on a trishaw ride in the city, change your money, and book air or bus tickets to various destinations in Malaysia. International calls, facsimile and telex services are also offered. For your first taste of Malaysian
cuisine, there is a restaurant in the right wing of the building. Cultural performances are held daily.
National Zoo and Aquarium
Thirteen kilometers north-east of Kuala Lumpur is the National Zoo. It contains hundreds of different species of animals, birds, and reptiles. The aquarium has an extensive collection of marine and freshwater species. Both the Zoo and Aquarium are open daily from 9am to 6pm.
Kuala Lumpur Railway Station
Located at Jalan Hishamuddin, this Moorish-style terminal was designed by architect A.B. Hubbock, who also designed the Masjid Jam. Built in 1910, it underwent extensive renovations in 1986. It is equipped with air-conditioned waiting halls, snack kiosks, money changing booths, souvenir shops, restaurants and a tourist information counter. Across the street is the Malayan Railway Administration Building, another fine example of the British colonial adaptation of Moorish architecture. It is linked to the station by an underground thoroughfare.
Central Market
Fifty years ago this site was occupied by a wet market. Today, the art-deco structure of the Central Market is a centre for the display and development of Malaysian
culture, arts and crafts. There are many performances, demonstrations, and activities offered here, including batik painting, fortune telling, shadow puppet plays, glass blowing, dance classes, art classes, and many others. The building won the Coronation Architecture Design Award in 1953.
National Library
Located at Jalan Tun Razak. The blue-roofed building was inspired by a tengkolok, the traditional Malay headgear, and songtet, a richly-designed brocade fabric. The library is a very recent addition to Kuala Lumpur, having opened only in 1992. The extensive holdings include a collection of publications on Malaysia by Malaysian authors as well as ancient Malay manuscripts. Open: 1Oam-5pm (Sat-Sun), Closed on Monday.
Petaling Street
The center of Kuala Lumpur's original Chinatown. Petaling Street maintains much of its traditional atmosphere, particularly at night when vendors spread their wares out on the street. While it is possible to purchase anything from gems and incense to toys and t-shirts here, enjoying the night market is really a matter of just wandering about and enjoying its sights, sounds, and energy.
Religious Attractions
Masjid Jame
Located in Jalan Tun Perak, this Moorish mosque rests on the confluence of the Klang and Gombak Rivers, the birth-place of Kuala Lumpur. This is the very spot where the first settlers of Kuala Lumpur built their shacks.
The mosque, which dates from 1908, is the oldest in the city. It was designed by Arthur Benison Hubbock, an architectural assistant in the Public Works and Survey Department, who was intrigued and inspired by the Mogul architecture of India
National Mosque
The boldly modern National Mosque is located near the railway station, along Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin. Its roof, designed in the shape of an eighteen-pointed star, has the appearance of a partly opened umbrella roof. The mosque was completed in 1965, and it is situated among five acres (13 hectares) of beautiful gardens. Visitors are required to remove their shoes. Special robes are provided if you are not appropriately attired.
Sri Mahamariaman Temple
Built in the late nineteenth century, this is one of the most ornate and elaborate Hindu temples in the country. The detailed decorative scheme for the temple incorporates intricate carvings, gold embellishments, hand-painted motifs and exquisite tiles from Italy and Spain. The Sri Mahamariaman Temple is the departure point for the annual
Thaipusam Festival pilgrimage to the
Batu Caves, and the temple houses a giant chariot that is used each year to transport a deity in the procession. Located along Jalan Bandar, Kuala Lumpur.
Islamic Centre
Located at Jalan Perdana, facing the National Mosque, is the Islamic Centre (Pusat Islam), a modern building of cubist and Islamic architecture. It is the centre of Islamic learning, art, design, and culture, and houses local and international Islamic exhibits.
Museums and Galleries
National MuseumThe National Museum, located atop a hill at Jalan Travers, provides an interesting introduction to the history and culture of Malaysia. Built in the style of a Malay palace, its impressive facade of two large murals depicts scenes of the country's colourful past. The museum houses various galleries, each with its own theme. The Historical Gallery traces the different periods in the history of Peninsular Malaysia. The Cultural Gallery is a collection of various aspects of the Malaysian culture, from common everyday
pastimes to important ceremonial customs. Included in the exhibits are a Malay wedding scene, a royal circumcision ceremony, and an presentation on the heritage of the Straits-born Chinese. The Metalwork and Musical Instruments Gallery showcases various objects and utensils from kitchenware and ceremonial ornaments to weapons and traditional instruments of Malaysian
music. Other galleries include the National Sports Gallery and the Natural History Gallery. The National Museum also holds regular thematic exhibitions. Visiting hours are from 9am-6pm daily.
Natural Rubber Museum
Located at the Rubber Research Institute's Experimental Station in Sungai Buloh, the Rubber Research Museum traces the history and development of the rubber industry in Malaysia. Visitors get to see what a rubber estate looks like and how it functions.
National Art Gallery
Located at Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin (opposite The Kuala Lumpur Railway Station), the National Art Gallery is housed in a 1932 building which is conserved under the National Heritage Trust. The building was formerly the Majestic Hotel. The art gallery showcases a the works of contemporary artists, and a permanent collection of works of local and foreign origin are also displayed. The National Art Gallery is open from 10am to 6pm daily (closed on Friday from 12:45-2.45 pm) Admission is free.
The National Planetarium
Located atop a hill in the Lake Gardens, this centre for Space Science Studies is indicative of Malaysia's efforts to create a scientifically and technologically-inclined society. It is also a fun way to spend an afternoon. A Space and Sky Movie is screened daily. There is also a working observatory equipped with a 14-inch telescope. The National Planetarium is open from Wednesday to Sunday.
Parks and Gardens
Kuala Lumpur Lake Gardens
Kuala Lumpur Lake Gardens (Taman Tasik Perdana) dates to the 1880s and is the city's most popular park. Built around an artificial lake, it encompasses 91.6 hectares of undulating greenery interspersed with flowering shrubs, shady trees, exceptional botanical gardens, and other notable features. The Panggung Anniversary, set in a secluded valley, is a regular venue for musical and cultural performances. There is a children's playground, jogging tracks, exercise stations, and rowing boats. Among the notable gardens and places of interest in the Gardens are the following:
The Orchid Garden
showcases more thousands of international varieties of the most beautiful flower in the world. The garden contains over 800 species from Malaysia alone. Orchids are for sale on weekends (10am-6pm).
The Hibiscus Garden
A small terraced garden which provides a strikingly colourful panorama of countless varieties of hibiscus.
The Butterfly Park
The Butterfly Park houses some 6,000 butterflies of over 120 species. The park is an imitation of the butterfly's natural habitat. It includes more than 15,000 plants from 100 species that have been used to recreate a Malaysian rainforest atmosphere. There is a nursery and breeding area for the butterflies. Visiting hours are from 9am to 5 pm on weekdays. Admission fees are RM4 for adults and RM2 for children.
Kuala Lumpur Bird Park
Kuala Lumpur Bird Park, the largest bird park in South-East Asia, holds thousands of birds representing nearly every major species of this part of the world. Open from 9am - 6pm daily except public holidays.
Malaysian National Monument
Also within the Lake Gardens, one of the world's largest freestanding bronze sculptures. The monument commemorates those who died in Malaysia's struggle against Communist insurgency in the 1950s. Beside the National Monument are the ASEAN Gardens and the Memorial Tun Razak, which houses memorabilia of Malaysia's second Prime Minister, the late Tun Abdul Razak Hussein.
The Deer Park
Located in the undulating slopes and sprawling valley of the Lake Gardens. Close to the bubbling stream at the edge of the valley are several mousedeer. The mousedeer is the world's smallest hoofed animal and a popular figure in local folklore due to its legendary wit. Open: 9am-5pm (Daily) Admission fees: RM1
Carcosa Seri Negara
Perched on a hilltop overlooking the Lake Gardens is Carcosa Seri Negara, a pair of nineteenth-century British colonial mansions. The Carcosa Seri Negara was the residence of the British Governor and British High Commissioners. Today, it has been converted into an exclusive hotel.
Forest Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM)
An area once used for mining is now a sprawling forest science park. FRIM contains several experimental plant arboreta as well as extensive reforested areas, which have reverted to the semblance of natural forest conditions. Located in Kepong, km north-west of Kuala Lumpur, the Institute includes jungle trails, waterfalls, a herbarium, a library and a museum. Since it is not a public park, all visitors should forward advanced written application to:
Public Relations Officer
Forest Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM)
Locked Bag 210, Jalan FRI Kepong, 52109 Kepong, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-6342633 Fax: 03-6367753
Historical Attractions
Dataran Merdeka
The Dataran Merdeka (formerly the Selangor Club Padang) was once the focal point, and cricket green, of the British colonial presence in Malaysia. Like the surviving Dutch buildings in
Malacca, the structures edging the Dataran Merdeka are startling testimony to colonial residents' desire to recreate the physical environment of their native land. Situated on one corner of the square is the Selangor Club, which once served as the social centre for British residents. Although its membership today reflects Malaysia's remarkable cultural diversity, the building itself is plucked from the merry old England of the Tudors. Close by is St Mary's Cathedral, a neo-Gothic church more than a hundred years old.
Appropriately enough, it was on the Dataran Merdeka that at 12:01 am on August 31, 1957, the Union Jack was lowered and the Malayan flag hoisted, signaling Malaysia's independence as a nation. A 100-meter flagpole, one of the tallest in the world, marks the spot. Beneath the Dataran Merdeka is the Plaza Putra, an underground food, leisure, and entertainment complex, which houses the Putra Indoor Golf Centre, the first Par-T-Golf in the city.
Sultan Abdul Samad Building
The gleaming copper domes and 130-meter clock tower of the Sultan Abdul Samad Building are by far the most impressive architectural feature of the Dataran Merdeka. This elaborate edifice is a fantastic blend of Moghul, Moorish, Arab, and British neoclassical architecture, a style far more expressive of the British colonial imagination than of Malay culture. Designed by architects Norman and Bidwell, the building took more than two years to build and was completed in 1897. It served initially as the center of British colonial administration in Malaysia. Today, it houses the Judicial Department on one end and Infokraf, a centre for Malaysian handicrafts, on the other.
Carcosa Seri Negara
Perched on a hilltop overlooking the Lake Gardens is Carcosa Seri Negara, a pair of nineteenth-century British colonial mansions. The Carcosa Seri Negara was the residence of the British Governor and British High Commissioners. Today, it has been converted into an exclusive hotel.
Parliament House
Standing on elevated ground commanding a panoramic view of the Lake Gardens is the modern Parliament House. The main building and its adjoining tower block accommodate the two houses of Parliament, a banquet hall, library, various offices and committee rooms. Visitors may view Parliamentary sessions by prior arrangement with the authorities, who will advise on protocol and dress code.
Istana Negara
The official residence of the Yang Di-Pertuan Agong (The King), located on a hillock at Jalan Istana. The palace is surrounded by green lawns, ponds and trees. On ceremonial occasions, the palace and its grounds are gaily lit-up.
Dayabumi Complex
The massive white modern complex of the famously expensive Dayabumi Complex was designed to blend in with the pervading Moorish and Byzantine atmosphere of the structures that surround it. The complex houses a shopping arcade, City Point, offices and the General Post Office.
Pak Ali's House
Located at the 10 km mark along Jalan Gombak. Designed in a unique blend of Sumatran and Persk architecture, the house was built early in this century by Haji Abbas bin Haji Abu Bakar, a headman of the Gombak village. The house is divided in to five main sections according to the traditional lifestyle of village folks. Open daily: 9am-5pm
Getting Around
Transportation
Kuala Lumpur is served by a comprehensive modern network of transportation systems. More than 30 foreign airlines fly in from various parts of the globe through the Subang Kuala Lumpur International Airport and KL International Airport at Sepang.
Railway lines and roads radiate from the city to many other parts of the country. Within Kuala Lumpur, buses, mini-buses and taxis ply regularly. The city's public transportation system will soon be further augmented by the Light Rail Transit (LRT). Kuala Lumpur is also served by the country's largest seaport, Port Klang.
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