Cambodia Tourism - Arrivals down 3.4 percent in first quarter of 2009

Latest figures up to March confirm that the sector is in decline as Vietnamese surpass South Koreans as top visitors to the Kingdom.

The Ministry of Tourism on Thursday reported a 3.4percent drop in foreign arrivals in the first quarter of 2009.

Kong Sopheareak, director of the ministry’s Statistics and Information Department, said 622,288 foreigners arrived in Cambodia during the first three months of the year, compared with 644,205 during the same period last year.

The quarter-on-quarter comparison also revealed that Vietnam replaced South Korea as the biggest source of visitors to Cambodia.

The number of Vietnamese arrivals increased by 49 percent, from 53,386 during the first quarter of 2008 to 79,724 in 2009.The number of South Korean arrivals fell from 97,536 during the first quarter of 2008 to 62,633 in 2009.

The number of Japanese arrivals also fell markedly, from 54,149 to 41,745, while the number of American visitors changed only slightly, from 47,612 to 46,616.

The number of arrivals form Thailand fell from 40,611 in 2008 to 27,050 in 2009, making it the eighth-largest supplier of visitors to the Kingdom.

“We have seen that tourists from Vietnam during this quarter have increased, while Thailand has been the opposite,” Kong Sopheareak said.

Both Kong Sopheareak and Ang Kim Eang, president of the Cambodia Association of Travel Agents, said the overall decline was insignificant and paled in comparison to decline seen in other countries, particularly elsewhere in Southeast Asia.

“I don’t really think it is a big problem for us,” Ang Kim Eang said.

“We are in a stable situation, even though there will be a slight increase in unemployment in the sector. If tourism dropped between 20 and 30 percent, that would be a big problem that we would care about.”

He said that the country’s political stability was a big factor in its ability to keep visitor number fairly level.

Minister of Tourism Thong Khon said he was encouraged that the sector did not rely solely on arrivals from Thailand.

“Now, Vietnam is the main tourism source for us,” he said.

Looking ahead, he said the ministry planned to target potential visitors in countries that had not been significantly affected by the financial crisis as well as to promote the Kingdom’s ecotourism destinations.

“We will also try to make it easier for tourists to make it through border checkpoints, especially from nearby countries,” he said.

Air traffic

Local media reported last week that the number of visitors passing through Phnom Penh International Airport dropped by 12.5 percent in the first quarter of 2009, while Siem Reap International Airport experienced a drop of 26 percent.

Mao Havannall, a secretary of state at the State Secretariat of Civil Aviation (SSCA), said he did not believe the decline was so dramatic but that he could not provide exact figures.

“My point of view is that the airline industry won’t really be affected much because everyone needs airlines,” he said.

Kao Sivorn, director of flight operations at the SSCA, also said he believed air traffic had declined somewhat but not to the extent reported in local media.

For example, he said, airlines that typically offered five flights a week might have dropped down to four.

He also said the recent state of emergency declared in Bangkok had not significantly affected the number of travellers arriving form there, adding that Bangkok Airways did not cancel a single flight.

Cambodias Underwater World - Taking the plunge in Cambodia

Discovering the Kingdom’s underwater world may be easier than you think

Perhaps Cambodia’s best-kept secret is the underwater world around Sihanoukville. Whether you are an experienced diver eager to clock in additional dives or a beginner interested in checking the sport out, the Kingdom has a number of dive shops to help you organize your date with diving.

Most of the dive operators in Cambodia have set up shop in Sihanoukville because of its proximity to dive sites, which are about two to five hours away by boat from the port of Sihanoukville depending on the weather and water conditions.

Koh Rong Samloem (two hours from Sihanoukville) offers visibility of up to 10 to 15 metres on a good day.

Scuba Nation, which opened its doors in 2002 with offices in both Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville, is the pioneer of Cambodia’s diving industry.

Partners Vicky Leah and Gerard Leenan have 32 years of diving experience between them and, after surveying what Cambodia has to offer, decided to open their own dive shop in Sihanoukville.

“We came to Cambodia on holiday and saw there was no organised diving. We spent six months checking out the reefs before deciding to open Scuba Nation,” said Leah.

New kid on the block The Dive Shop Cambodia opened in Sihanoukville in December 2007.

The Dive Shop is owned by two Germans, Rudy Schmittlein and Irfan Arndt, who have dived in numerous exotic locations around the world before stumbling upon Cambodia. Taken by the beauty of the country, they both decided to settle down in Sihanoukville and capitalize on the surrounding is lands’ virtually untouched dive sites.

Eco-Sea Dive and a smaller operator Frogman Dive Center also operate out of Sihanoukville.

Both Scuba Nation and The Dive Shop Cambodia have been accredited by the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) and have been awarded National Geographic Dive Centre status.

Those interested in diving in Cambodia’s southwestern-most province close to the Thai-Cambodian border can venture out to Koh Kong.

Initially operating out of a small dive.

IN EVERYTHING WE DO, WE ALWAYS TRY TO LOOK FOR ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY OPTIONS.”

Centre in Koh Tao, Thailand, Alan Andrew and Robert Rhemrev opened Impian Divers in Koh Kong in December 2008. Both have certifications from PADI.

Challenges

As Cambodia’s diving industry is not even a decade old, many dive operators face numerous challenges.

Leah admits her frustration over the lack of skilled personnel but it hopeful that with training and encouragement this will change.

The crews of Scuba Nation’s two dive boats are local, and the operation’s owner Leenan is quite pleased with their performance.

The Dive Shop Cambodia is proud to have trained Cambodia’s first dive instructor.

Schmittlein and Arndt encouraged a local from Koh Rong Samloem to take advanced courses in diving to enable him to move from the dive master level to the dive instructor level. They now hope that this will inspire more locals to pursue the sport and realize what career opportunities diving can offer.

Proper conservation and responsible diving are two causes that bigger operators such as Scuba Nation and The Dive Shop Cambodia are trying to champion by being Go-Eco Operators and active members of Project Aware, an environmental project of PADI.

“In everything we do, we always look for the environmentally friendly option,” said Leah.

After research trips to Indonesia and Malaysia to study methods of reef restoration, Scuba Nation has recently anchored the first trial artificial reef close to the islands off the southwestern coast of Cambodia.

“Although the reefs in Cambodia are generally healthy, there is some cause for concern due to rising sea temperatures, pollution and the residual effects of dynamite fishing. Our trial artificial reefs are situated in different areas and depths and use supports of different heights to ascertain the optimum height, current and depth for growth of coral,” Leah said, estimating that in three months the trial should provide her with enough data to successfully create larger permanent artificial reefs.

One of the projects initiated by Schmittlein and Arndt from The Dive Shop include beach and marine cleanup days.

They are also raising funds for a school near Koh Rong Samloem, the area where they do most of their diving.

The Dive Shop Cambodia hopes to establish a long-term relationship with the school so the students develop and appreciation for the unique environment they are in and learn about sustainable livelihood.

“We hope to be able to demonstrate to local people and to the government the benefits that tourism can bring, and encourage them to fish in ways that will help retain as much of Cambodia’s wonderful marine life as possible,” said Schmittlein.

Cambodia’s Jungle Refuge a hit with Ecotourists

Koh Kong is becoming a magnet for travellers seeking something a little off the beaten track

Cambodia’s southwestern province of Koh Kong is fast becoming a magnet for intrepid ecotourists eager to explore the region’s vast array of flora and fauna in a remote part of the Kingdom once bypassed by the majority of travellers.

Koh Kong, a region often seen as merely a passageway to the Thai border, is home to lush virgin rainforests, waterfalls, mountains, crystal-clear rivers and kilometer upon kilometer of undeveloped coastline and islands.

The region has enjoyed relative sanctuary from poachers and loggers. This is no accident as the local communities have been working together with various NGOs and government agencies to preserve one of Cambodia’s most pristine regions.

Located 7 kilometers from Koh Kong city, Pream Krasop Wildlife Sanctuary is a 25,897-hectare protected zone established in 1993 to conserve one of the world’s last intact coastal mangrove forests.

The local community of Boeung Kayak, in partnership with the International Union for the Conservation of Nature and the Cambodian government, has endeavoured to make the mangrove forest an environmentally friendly and sustainable tourist site.

For a nominal fee of 5,000 riels (US$1.22) for foreign nationals or 3,000 riels for Cambodians, visitors can meander through the mangroves on a shady 1-kilometre stretch of locally built, Robinson Crusoe-like walkways and suspension bridges.

At one point, a 15-metre viewing platform emerges, uncovering a stunning view of faraway mountains, while below the platform local fisherman harvest green mussels in the shallow waterways of an estuary.

The same fishermen offer boat rides, which provide an entirely new perspective of Pream Krasop’s mangrove system from a small canoe-like wooden vessel.

A chartered boat costs $25 and usually includes a trip to an old fishing village deep in the forest where fresh local seafood and vegetables can be purchased and prepared, or a trip along the coastline to search for various types of sea birds, fish and even dolphins.

“Everything you see here was built by local villagers and is maintained by local people. We sell the crabs to some of the restaurants in town, and catch fish and small squid to sell or to make kapei,” said a local fisherman known simply as Chea.

Kapei is Koh Kong’s unique version of prahok – a thick, pungent, plum-coloured fish paste, which can be eaten with rice, vegetables or sour fruit.

Tatai Waterfall

Tatai waterfall is another protected area 20 kilometres east of Koh Kong city. The turnoff to the fall passes a police checkpoint where officers act as both law enforcement officials and part-time park rangers.

Depending on the amount of recent rainfall, visitors can clamber over massive rock shelves, take picnics next to the falls or simply cool off under the thundering cascades of clear mountain water, streaming fresh from the Cardamon mountains.

Rainbow Lodge is Koh Kong’s only eco-lodge, one of only two in Cambodia, the second of which is located in Ratanakkiri.

Owned by the friendly and down-to-earth barrister-turned-green business owner, Janet Newman, the lodge is located on a quiet, verdant patch of jungle overlooking the Tatai river.

The lodge can only be reached by boat and was built in 2008 using local labour – and whenever possible, local materials. It is powered almost entirely by solar panels and staffed by locals from the Tatai region.

“When I was researching how to build and eco-lodge, I learned that the most environmentally damaging structure is one that is built in a straight line, which forces people to make multiple paths directly to the building,” Newman said.

“This is why the bungalows here are laid out in a rainbow formation, this way each bungalow has a great view of the forest and the river,” she added.

For $50 a night, guests receive three meals a day, including a three-course dinner in the evening with different options for starters, mains and dessert.

Local involvement

“I buy all the food here locally at the markets,” Newman said, adding that this way she can provide the freshest food for guests while still supporting the local community.

During the day, Rainbow Lodge guests can swim in the peaceful, slow-moving Tatai river, take boats and kayaks out on the river or take small nature walks around the property to enjoy the greenery and the ever-present and brightly coloured butterflies and birds.

The lodge also offers day trips to the Tatai waterfalls, guided treks and boat trips to a set of rapids one hour up stream from the bungalows.

There is also the option of spending the night deep in the forest, and while this may seem daunting to some, the opportunity to dine on local produce under the stars is one not to be missed.

The rapids offer a perfect example of the serenity and pristine nature of Koh Kong.

Virtually deserted, the rapids are made up of a jumble of huge boulders in the river that cause the water to pool and form a small lake before tumbling over the rocks and down the river.

Visitors can picnic on the small beach nearby, sunbathe on the large rocks or swim in the pure, natural pools with only the sounds of running water and chirping birds to be heard.

“I think I give visitors a lot of independence. People can do pretty much whatever they want during the day. However, the only thing I’m pretty adamant about is that people do not at tempt to go trekking in the forest without a guide,” Newman said, adding that people sometimes underestimate the fact that they’re in a jungle and it’s just way too easy to get lost or hurt.

The road to Koh Kong is now in good condition and can be accessed from Phnom Penh by bus with the Virak Bunthan bus company, or by share taxis, both of which take about five to six hours.

Alternatively, travellers can also reach Koh Kong from Sihanoukville by bus (five hours) or boat (four hours).

To contact Koh Kong’s Rainbow Lodge, call 099 744 321, or check out its website at www.rainbowlodgecambodia.com

Kep - The Emerging Cambodia's Beach Destination

In Cambodia, where a decade-long tourism boom has been driven almost entirely by safe and easy access to the ancient Angkor Wat temples, the rebirth of a seaside resort town is helping lure visitors to the country’s long-neglected coastline.

The sleepy town of Kep on the southeast coast has been earmarked as Cambodia’s first boutique tourism destination, but for now it bears few of the characteristics of the countless backpacker Meccas and resorts scattered throughout Southeast Asia.

Tourist numbers have surged in recent years, but this town of just a few thousand people has maintained its unhurried, pastoral character. Unlike Sihanoukville, a lively huddle of guesthouses, bars and nightclubs on the central coast, Kep seems to be taking a relaxed path towards developing its tourism sector.

But with its lush rainforests, crystalline waters and bountiful seafood, Kep is finding that the tourists don’t need much encouragement. A three-hour drive from the capital Phnom Penh, Kep has become a favorite weekend retreat for expatriates and Cambodia’s burgeoning middle class.

The town is only 20 minutes from a recently opened Vietnamese border crossing, making it a perfect place to say hello or goodbye to Cambodia.

"They told us to expect fewer tourists in Cambodia this year," a local taxi driver says. "But more and more come here every week, to see the mountains and the caves, and of course, to eat."

Kep’s famous crabs were among the many treasures that helped the town become a playground for Cambodia’s French rulers in the early 20th century. Along with former king and independence leader Norodom Sihanouk, the French elite built dozens of mansions in the hills along the coastline and sailed their yachts in the protected waters in the Gulf of Thailand.

But like many regions in Cambodia, Kep was ravaged by the United States’ secret bombing campaign during the Indochinese War, and was forcibly evacuated during the Khmer Rouge’s 1975-1979 rule. The ultra-communist group considered the town a symbol of bourgeois hedonism and colonial oppression, and destroyed most of its infrastructure.

Kep lay dormant for more than a decade, and the scars of its troubled past are still visible among the poor local population and neglected amenities. The seaside villas left standing have become overgrown with vines and tree trunks, and now only the smallest of fishing boats dock in the once-bustling port.

But Kep’s striking beauty has not paled despite years of conflict, neglect and civil war. Guesthouses and hotels catering to all budgets have been built along the coast, including the exclusive Knai Banh Chatt hotel, which boasts views of the imposing Bokor Mountain from its infinity pool.

While the town has no beach and is separated from the sea by a strip of coarse red stones, a cheap 30 minute boat ride to Koh Thonsay — known as Rabbit Island — reveals one of Cambodia’s pristine beaches. Budget accommodation is compulsory, as the island’s only available beds are housed in palm-wood bungalows, which can be rented for between $7 and $10 per night.

The bungalows’ power generators are switched off at 10 p.m., and as the fluorescent lights along the beach fade, a spectacular night sky is revealed.

But Kep’s greatest attraction may well be the variety of seafood on offer in the restaurants and stalls downtown. Crabs cooked with local pepper sell for between $3 and $10, and grilled fish on skewers cost less than $5. For the more adventurous, or less eco-conscious, grilled seahorse is also available.

Driving past the various building sites, road workers and bulldozers on the road out of town, one gets the impression that the place is on the verge of a tourism storm. So as travellers look for cheaper tropical escapes in South-East Asia, now might be the time to experience Kep and beat the rush.